I had a rare day when I had absolutely no meetings or events in my calendar. I used it to start a sewing project, which I hope will result in an outfit for Lumous festival that's next month. I bought ten meters of reasonably priced taffeta and took to finding out how the Fan + Friend bustle skirt was constructed, so I could make my own version.
I love the black bustle skirt, but it so dark that some of the lovely details are lost and don't show up in photos well. That's why I decided to go for material that's something else than black. First I was thinking about red, but I rarely wear red and don't think it goes well with my pink hair. After some thinking I settled for a gorgeous kupfer-orange or
copper orange (that was also only 4 euros per meter). It seemed like a fairly unique shade, something that would work well with accessories I have, and it should work with pink hair too.
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The Fan + Friend skirt worn by a dress form for closer inspection. Notice the authentic German dust on the hem ;P |
I looked at some Truly Victorian patterns, but the skirts didn't appeal to me, so I decided to go without and just try to mimic the Fan + Friend skirt that fits me well and seems to have all the qualities I want. I put it on my dress form and did some measuring, and cut the copper orange taffeta based on the measurements. I'm still missing a zipper and the skirt is missing the top layer that has the actual bustle and a apron part, but I think it's looking quite nice even now. My picture doesn't do it justice, but the pleats are looking really nice and the skirt fits over a petticoat and a bustle cage just like it should, which makes me happy.
Having a simple, non-bustled base skirt make it so much easier to make sure the bustle will stay in place, and that I can use plenty of fabric to do pleats and drapes on the top part of the skirt, and the hemline pleats will make the bottom look nice and finished.
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View from the back, the base skirt with no bustled top part yet. The dress form is wearing a tulle petticoat and a bustle cage so I can see how the skirt looks on top of them. |
I spend most of yesterday evening by ironing the neverending pleats. There was nine meters of fabric before pleating, so that's a lot! But I think it looks really good, and the front side of the skirt will have the apron part so that the pleating will show nicely under it, so I think it was worth it. Now just the zipper, a button at the waist, gathering the bustle in the back and pleating the apron in the front. I think the hem pleats are the most time-consuming part of the project, so most of the work is done. I bought a Truly Victorian pattern for a separate bodice, but I'll do a mock-up first to see how it fits. It's a fairly complicated piece, but I'm pretty sure I can master it. If not on the first go, there's plenty of fabric for a second version, so I think I'm safe.
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| So. Many. Pleats. |
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| Magnus was ecstatic over the long hems, he dove right in under any and all skirts I put on the dress form! |
I'm excited to continue with this project! If I have enough time, I'll make a matching hat or a fascinator too. I'm going nest week on a trip to Tallinn with some lovely ladies from our craft club, we will raid all the fabric stores, so then I will have the zipper I need ;D